As I mentioned in my previous blog, we first visited the Rotokare Scenic Reserve back in June 2017. With winter in full swing and a few minor things wrong with our old motorhome, such as no working heater and a faulty ignition on the water heater, we chose not to stay on that occasion. That trip was the second to last time we used the old Mitsubishi we had owned for some sixteen years. Even though it had it’s ever increasing number of faults it still allowed us to do what we love, explore New Zealand. That time, after a quick walk along one of the trails we left to find a different campsite knowing how lucky we had been to be directed to this area by one of the locals in Eltham and resolved to return one day.
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That day came in August of this year when after exploring the Dawson Falls I suggested to Sarah that we head back there and take advantage of the freedom camping spots. Its a nice drive through rural NZ before you arrive, then once you have to clear the automatic double gates through the predator proof fencing that surrounds the reserve. From there it’s down a rather narrow road with tall native bush on each side before bringing you down into a bird song paradise. There are five spots allocated for self contained and a similar number for non self contained. With the self contained closer to the entrance and away from the toilets. The place was almost deserted on our arrival so there was plenty of space to park up and enjoy the views across the lake. Like the last time we visted there is no phone signal here so make sure you aren’t expecting any urgent calls.
Clik here to view.
Clik here to view.
Clik here to view.
Clik here to view.
There are two main tracks here one that runs around the lake and takes an hour or so to complete and the other, well more on that soon. As we often do not long after our arrival we set out to explore the area deciding to walk the lakeside track. Although there was only one other camper, there were a number of people walking the track a couple of whom told us it was wet, muddy and slippery. I don’t know what part of the track that they were walking but Sarah and I found a good well graded track the whole way around the lake. Yes, there was a little mud in places but nothing compared to some other tracks we have explored.
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One of the things that constantly surprises me, is how quiet the bush can sometimes be, in fact I find the lack of bird song disconcerting. Not so on this day with the sound of the Hihi or Stichbird laughing at us as we entered the bush. Numbers of these birds have been expodentially advanced by the introduction of the bird feeding stations. These feeders are very cleverly designed and only open wide enough for the Hihi to feed the larger Saddlebacks and Tui are left to fend for themselves in the bush.
Speaking of Saddlebacks they are were almost impossible to photograph despite being present in large numbers there colours just blended into the background too much. Unlike the North Island Robin’s who would appear alongside the path making taking a photo simpler despite their small size. Of course having a proper camera rather than just trying to use my cellphone might make things easier.
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I don’t know if this reserve is regenerated bush or an uncut stand although I would think the former. Still there are some magnificent trees as you wander around including this huge Kahikatea which may have somehow missed being harvested. As this reserve is in a valley water drains into the lake all around so there are a number of boardwalks where you are walking over the water inflow. Whoever is funding this place must be doing something right as they were replacing a number of the boardwalks on our visit and I cannot imagine it would be a cheap exercise.
We had an incredibly peaceful night with only the calls of the Kiwi resounding through the bush to disturb our sleep. We didn’t venture out to try and find them but others have talked on social media about seeing them So if you have never seen or heard Kiwi in the wild then this would be a good place to visit. Not forgetting to mention all the other birdlife you will encounter. Click here for a link to Google Maps so you can set directions to find the place.
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The next morning I asked Sarah if she felt she could tackle the other walk, which follows the ridge around the lake and has a sign at the base of the track telling you that it’s a steep climb and a good level of fitness is required. She was up for the challenge and after a good breakfast we set off. I agree that it is steep but the hundreds of steps cut into the hillside at the start of the walk, make the going so much easier. I also found that you can use the nearby fence as a sort of handrail to help pull you up. After breaking her wrist when she slipped on a walk last year Sarah was taking no chances taking along and using her new walking poles. The track must be used to help maintain the fence on the inside and also make sure that no trees are overhanging allowing pests to enter.
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Yes it’s quite a hike to the top of the ridge but once you get there it’s a fairly easy walk along the ridgeline before starting the descent back to the lake. One thing that I was sort of expecting happened as we ascended, with my phone “pinging” multiple times with new messages having been most of the previous day without a connection. Thankfully nothing more pressing than one of our sons wanting to know why he couldn’t get hold of us. In most areas the track is in really good condition with gravel steps at the steepest points and very few areas of mud, so I really don’t know what the people the previous day were talking about. The sign at the bottom says the walk is two and a half to three and a half hours and we easily walked it in the two and half hours. There are a couple of areas on the track that provide a great view of the lake below but I would describe it as more of a walking track than a scenic one. Because it follows the fenceline the only real bush walk is the descent, but that is very pretty and well worth the steepish climb.
One of the things I love about getting out and about in the motorhome is how some people you come across have local knowledge and tell you about other places you can stay. We had initially considered staying a second night before speaking with the other couple who also overnighted here and it turned out, only lived a few kilometres away. They were spending the night to have shakedown on their caravan before heading to the South Island. Brave souls given the time of the year Image may be NSFW.
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They suggested that another great place to stay was Dudley Hall (#4213) near Inglewood. We arrived to find some activity at the hall and a number of children playing in the school grounds next door. Since that is also where the camping area was located we did wonder if something was going on. We were soon to find out. When just in the process of setting up and about to pay our fees when one of the adults wandered over from the hall to let us know that they were having a sixtieth birthday party that night with one hundred guests invited. He assured us that they would vacate the hall by midnight and all would be quiet from then but we decided to move on. It’s a shame really as it seemed like a really nice spot and at only $10 with power a bargain.
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Time then to find another place to stay. Despite having been members of the association for over twenty years and having been to New Plymouth multiple times we have never stayed at the local NZMCA Park. So we locked in directions using the App and set off for the Huatoki Domain and the subject of the next blog in this series.
To view the places we have visited click here to see them on Google maps. You can then click the link to read the blog about that area.
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